Fernando & Bus Mariachi

Uruguay to Buenos Aires | January 1, 2026

Hola, la familia y compadres. Feliz ano nuevo!

Left Uruguay via ferry. Unlike the punishing 4- to 5-hour burn-my-face-off ride Cynthia and I took years ago, this newer 1-hour 15-minute cruise was amazing. The interior was very comfortable, with a huge duty-free shop, dining/drinking area, and outdoor spaces, powered by 4 water-jet propulsion engines.

It was an amazing $30/person no-sunburnt-face experience. It was really amazing how fast and stable the ride felt, [knowing how large the ferry was, filled with humans and cars], and the entrance to Buenos Aires was a very cool experience.

Painted terracotta sculpture by Alonso Cano of a cherub angel lifting a blue cloth from the severed head of John the Baptist, on a red museum pedestal
Museum gallery with a white marble sculpture of three entwined figures on a plinth, a gilt-framed painting of a reclining nude on the wall beyond (photo rotated sideways)

Enter: Fernando, Stage Right

While waiting in line for the ferry to load, I scored first in line- I usually sit and wait for last call (This being the rare and uncomfortable exercise in forethought on my part). I turned to this older gentleman in hopes that he spoke English and could guide us to the best window seating placement for viewing- Strategic planning.

The jury is out on whether I trust these Latin-xer's in a waiting-in-line scenario. Quick case in point, once the gate opened to load, some lil Latina literally elbowed me to pass! So, - not overgeneralizing-- it happens often.

The Fernando Tour

Ok, back to Fernando, he guided us to seats, literally. Later, we bumped into him on the ferry, and he took us by hand to show us around the ship like he owned it [see video]. He was a businessman who lived in Montevideo and had a home in Tigre, Argentina.

Upon exiting the ferry, he waited for us to assist in ALL things: busing to the huge and amazing train station and paying for us both, changing money on the black market, procuring transit card tickets, and locating the train to our area [ending up being not the correct one...]. All said, he spent at least an hour with us getting us situated.

Reminds us of another fortuitous meeting with the incredible Aleksandra, whom we met in Poland. In a sea of rude people, she shone and guided us through our train puzzle, invited us into her father's car for travel to our ultimate destination an hour later! We still keep in touch with her; she is on this thread. Thanks again (Dziękuję bardzo), Aleksandra!!!

Overlapping slices of matambre-style stuffed meat roll, each with rings of hard-boiled egg and carrot, fanned on a white cutting board
A Colonia Express high-speed catamaran ferry kicking up spray as it crosses the wide brown Río de la Plata

New Year's Eve: Cool Peeps

Here at our stay, again meeting interesting and cool peeps. Paulo from Brazil works and hangs out here. He is the second 'recovering' attorney I've met in my travels who realized better, quit, and now travels and does whatever else life spits at him, combined with a retail operation he's planning on expanding...

We ended up hanging out with him for New Year's Eve on shitty couches, listening to awesome tracks he laid down, having deep conversations about his life/country..., chatting up other guests from other parts of the world, nibbling on an awesome charcuterie plate Heather conjured up, and drinking Argentinian beer/wine/champagne.

Windblown selfie at the ferry's stern rail: waving and flashing a peace sign over the long white wake trailing across the river
Late night in the hostel common room: two friends at the wooden table flashing peace signs at the camera

Another interesting cat we met was from Israel. He and his 2 friends are traveling for a year throughout Latin America and other parts... We had intimate conversations with him about religion, politics, and the typical lives of Israelis. Fascinating, interesting, and he is a super sweet guy!

Bus Mariachi

Small bands in train playing music/singing for money - crazy!

Side Quips/Notes/Observations

Arriving in Buenos Aires by water: Puerto Madero's high-rise towers behind the trees and the old white Casino Buenos Aires riverboat moored along the bank
Grinning in pink-tinted glasses over dinner at the hostel table: milanesa with capers, watercress salad and marinated cherry tomatoes (photo rotated sideways)

Smelling Like Madge's Customers

Needed and bought Palmolive 'soap' from the bottom sale shelf [.30 cents]-- now we either smell like cheap French whores from the '70s, walking laundromats, or customers of that sassy/sarcastic 'Madge' the '70s manicurist commercial who famously touted "You're soaking in it."

We purchased public transit cards for credit when we travel (thanks, Fernando)- yesterday we struggled with the swipe, so the drivers just let us slide, not worth their time to explain proper card usage, saving us .35 cent trips each. Now, we can buy more Palmolive soap, smelling even more/longer like whores. Our exasperation skills are hard at work and seemingly effective!

A bunch of Israelis are staying here. They LOVE their coffee: Turkish-style, super intense/strong. Dude mentioned above brought 15 bags along! Anyway, they push their coffee like lines of coke. Every time I see them, they offer/push more on us. Last night they placed some in front of us, I sipped it all night, not wanting to drink too much alcohol, and couldn't sleep. Good thing today is NY day, and we have no plans.
The dark-hulled Buquebus fast ferry 'Silvia Ana L' underway on the muddy Río de la Plata under a hazy sky
Settled into the ferry cabin: rows of orange-and-gray seats down the wood-floored aisle, bags piled on the neighboring seat
Windblown selfie at the ferry's stern rail, waving and flashing a peace sign over the wake (same photo as above)

Time to Make Bruncher

[breakfast/lunch/dinner]: Garlic, onion, arugula, watercress, tomato cream sauce with langostinos and chorizo over fresh pasta. Sided with lemon garlic sauteed broccoli and marinated lemon garlic cherry tomatoes. ...and, lest I forget, a bottle of Argentinian vino tinto!

BTW... this took hours [now 8 pm] to make due to the piece of shit range top we have available...

¡Buen provecho!

~e