We left off at the Chilean border, high atop the Andes Mountains. An extraordinary journey showcasing such beautiful views that words can't do it justice. I'd done it before with Cynthia, but that was the night bus, so we weren't privy to the wonderful scenery.
Btw, that snake-lookin' road the bus was on in the picture on the last email (Chilean side of the mountain/border, and again added herein) was very narrow and had no guard rails, just lots of freefall fun!
Murphy's Law Strikes Again
Arriving in Santiago, dragging a long trip even further, we, of course, were the last stop; at least the stop was downtown. Nabbed an Uber to our place after 9ish hours of travel and customs waiting. We were so ready to get our place, unpack our crap, and find drinks/food. The stay was in an apartment building with many Airbnbs, had good reviews, was in a nice area, and looked to be really cool.
Guess who was there at the front desk! Murphey [of Murphey's Law fame]!!! The front desk hadn't a clue about our room number, called the number attached to the confirmation, and no one answered. This is the second time that we got screwed by a scammer on an online booking service. Now we have to fight to get our money back on this. Good god here we go again.
I immediately went to work, using the building's Wifi, and found a place. Heather wasn't too amped, but just wanted a place at this point, and didn't have the fight in her to nix it. I, on the other hand, had a good feeling about it. As we waited for confirmation, we found some food. It had many options in one, a nicer food court of sorts, that had Wifi. Upon hearing we didn't speak Spanish, the head chef came over. He could see I was a bit sour, frustrated, and all the Erich things without even knowing me. He seemingly took pity on us and brought us an impressive soup on the house. We ordered and had a great meal- no alcohol though!!!
Enter: Verona
Food in the tummy, stay confirmed, Uber ordered, we headed to the new place. We communicated via WhatsApp with a fella at the stay who spoke English. He told us Verona would meet us there, but she didn't speak English- what's new, this isn't my first Latin American rodeo!?
Arriving, knocking, and meeting Verona after unlocking many locks/doors later, we finally entered the building. I've stayed in places like this many times. Generally, nothing special announces itself on the outside as most have blasé exteriors, sans the wrought iron-clad windows and traditional architecture. The interior is typically rectangular, commonly housing an open-air atrium as a living area/gathering point or for plants..., and the rooms around the edges will comprise bedrooms, shared living, dining, the kitchen, and bathrooms. I read about and saw some fun artwork throughout the place- you know I love me some art!!!
As soon as the door opened, we could tell that Verona was something special. Chatty, super sweet, tiny, yet a huge presence...and even more chatty. We spoke in the international language of scharades. All hands were animated and swinging, much pointing, hand gestures, giggling like little schoolgirls, noise-making, and a lot of assistance from Google Translate. She had big plans for us the following day, to meet people and see/do things. That night, we were beginning to learn her eccentricities. The next day, the universe revealed she was a 'Force Majeure' of this barrio.
The Best Day That Couldn't Have Been Planned
Enter, the best day that couldn't have been planned or purchased as a tour: After crashing hard from a long day of travel, the march began around 10:30ish. We were staying in the historic Yungay area, the first neighborhood after the historic Santiago center. Rich in culture, community, and arts.
Santiago was hot, but we trudged forward. As we walked, we learned about her and her background as an actress. We constantly met people along the way in the streets/stores/restaurants/cafes, whom she knew. Kisses and hugs flew like cows to the milking barn. We stopped at this quaint cafe along the way. As I was looking around at the electronics of yesteryear knick-knacks, Verona popped up, grabbed an old phone, picked it up, and it was buzzing. Just then, she reminded me of Pee Wee's Playhouse!!!
Verona's friend, Claudia, met up with us as we walked. Claudia spoke English, and more about her later. Our major stop was at the Museum of Memory and Human Rights for its 16th anniversary.
Museum of Memory and Human Rights
So, nothing like starting a city tour with a depressing historical event: the Pinochet era. "Augusto Pinochet was a Chilean dictator who seized power in a violent coup in 1973. His 17-year rule is characterized by radical economic transformation and severe human rights atrocities, including torture, disappearances, and political executions. He was forced to step down after losing a 1988 referendum, restoring democracy in 1990."
I sense that in today's political climate, he would not have stepped down and further dug in. History. Last year in Poland, Hitler/Communism were being served in their historical museums, and Pol Pot on my Cambodia trip.... depressing and emotional.
Zarita: Peruvian Perfection
After touring the neighborhood, we were pointed to a Peruvian restaurant, Zarita. The retail spaces we saw in that neighborhood were similar in design theory: Highly artistic, eclectic, creative interiors, and a visually stunning feast for the eyes. The few pix attached don't nearly do them justice. We had a fabulous meal with incredible Pisco Sours. YUMMY!!!
Needless to say, the combination of a major meal, drinks, heat, touring, and yesterday's travel led to a quick, hard nap.
Verona's Hidden Empire
Post nap, Verona wanted us to see her 6-year renovation of an old medical clinic a couple of blocks away. Top-to-bottom renovation, 3 stories, commercial kitchen/bathrooms, and a rooftop area. Beautifully renovated, only housing the basics and lots of chairs. We thought this was her house. Correctio. It is an event space for parties, and theater... hmmm, this gal does it up right!
Side notes: A stone's throw from her house lived the current President of Chile. Her house sat on a corner, now I understand why there were armoured vehicles, blockades, and security on her side-street. Somewhere along the way, we discovered that she has 5 houses. 1 is a gorgeous setup in Patagonia, where her husband Ricardo was at the time.
She then invited one of her English-speaking dancer friends, Mercello, to join. He was super sweet and a nice addition to our day. Three bottles [plus] of wine later, watching the sunset over the city from the rooftop deck, lots of laughing and chatter, it was time for dinner at Claudia's (from the earlier tour) restaurant, Gargola.
Captured Moments
Dinner at Gargola
Obviously another noted restaurant given that it was slammed from outside seating throughout its 3 floors. There, we met her English-speaking eccentric husband, Titus. Another super cool cat, who I had a thousand questions for.
We finally entered the space (in its prior life, Titus made custom furniture here), and my eyes were treated to another display of visual spectacularness. It was like visiting Candyland. Again, full-out every inch creatively populated with art, and a mish-mash of items from everywhere, combined with everything. Unexplainable, but surely camera worthy, as many customers were taking pictures, and all eyes were constantly roving and nibbling on the awesome vibe.
Finally, arriving at an 8-top table specifically arranged for us, we were joined by another 2 of their friends: Paula and Vincent. They owned a successful coffeehouse in this neighborhood as well. So, all the actors on this proverbial stage were not only very close friends, but were entrenched as business owners in the Yungay neighborhood, extremely involved and interested in its cultural heritage (past, current, future), and all super cool/sweet/interesting/smart... we felt honored and so very special to be invited into their group.
The restaurant served high-end versions of Chilean food, curated and imaginative cocktails (more Pisco Sours- Yes Please!!!), and topped with a variety of yummy desserts. Most spoke English, so I posed questions like a reporter on steroids. We had exceptionally fascinating conversations, truly interesting topics, and we ended up closing the place down, not nearly satiated with this unique evening, still lusting for more engagement!
Crashing the Party
O mon frère, little did anyone know, the party was just starting. Marcello already mentioned plans earlier that day. Lo and behold, it was literally next door to the restaurant. So, what does any well-polished group of individuals do? Crash the party!
It was a birthday party. The birthday boy, and nearly everyone else there, was in the arts. DJ, drinks, more food, lots of hip people just dancing and carousing... enter the breeders. We were the only straights by far who just crashed their party. All was cool, and everyone danced, except me; I just wall-flowered and surveyed, chatting to the errant passers-by who filled my cup. Someone had to be the adult. This lasted till around 3.
As I intimated earlier, this whole day, these people, this area, the visuals, all fortuitously fell into our laps. Good god, what an unexpected, never-to-be-replicated day!!!! We were so very fortunate.
The Morning After
The next morning, we woke up late, obviously. Verona, all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, was excited to make us a fresh pan [bread], covered in avocado and ham. After, she toured us around the hood, showing us more cool things and introducing us to more people. This area is noted for the most museums per square km.
She dropped us off at the French Hair Stylist Museum, Fronseca. What?! After showing us around, seeing more of her friends, we were again dazzled with yet another beyond amazing place. This museum/restaurant/barber shop was highly noted as well. Another unique feather in the neighborhood cap. I know this is getting boring, but yet another exceptionally designed space, with fabulous food, and excellent Pisco Sours! Oh, por favor, make it stop—no más!
The Opera Professor
I noticed the woman sitting next to us spoke English. As she was leaving, I asked how her meal was. Soon after, Heather invited her to sit and have a Pisco Sour with us. Of course, we then had to join her with another of our own.
She was a professor at a conservatory in New York and was here for a week-long international performance arts event. Come to find out, she wrote an Opera that was being shown at the event and has been traveling around the world as part of that tour.
Leaving and straight to nappy time after tummies full, imbibing too much, meeting new/interesting humans, and hot weather. Only to get up quickly, deciding we wanted to see her opera. We Ubered to the place she sent us, and it wasn't the place; it was the entity office showcasing the event. Sad we missed the show, and in a semi-stupor from a restless nap, we went home to lick our wounds, and catch up on online stuff/laundry/chill...
Personal Impressions
Realizing there are many high-end restaurants out there with million+ dollar designs, the ones we encountered were far more interesting, imaginative, and exciting. A place where the owners can piece together a truly experiential space for $20-40k is far more impressive than someone who has stupid money, contracting with expensive designers... Anyone can spend big bucks making something happen, but not many can do so much with so little. To top it off, their food and drinks were spot on, and the experiences were far more memorable!
Given the proximity, we met multiple Venezuelan expats while in Chile. I guess there is a huge population of them who immigrated. They were amped about the goings on, and we were amped for them. All with high hopes that this is the beginning of a new path for their country.
Quick Notes on Santiago:
Darkness doesn't hit till around 9:15 pm
A lot of common area recycling
Santiago is a huge, sprawling city (7m+), set in a very large valley surrounded by mountains, so when you're up high, you can see the smog
The majority of taller living spaces/buildings are very nondescript, utilitarian, concrete behemoths
Farewell, Heather
The next day, we woke up to Verona and breakfast. The day was light since Heather had a flight back to the States late that night. It's already been 5 weeks at this point. She flew back to Indy (14-hour trip, 1 stop in ATL), where a friend picked her up, and they drove to Louisville for a few-night conference. No rest for the wicked.
As for me... stay tuned. I'm only halfway started and lots of ground yet to cover!
~e
FYI, last week I learned of a college classmate of mine passing from cancer, Paul. He's in my thoughts.
